Most of the time medlars are mixed with apples to be turned into wine or jellies. As we had a large quantity of quinces donated to us I thought I’d give it a go mixing the two, and actually, the result is perfect. When you cook quinces for a long period of time the syrup turns pink which gives this jelly an attractive colour.

The theme of the quinces continue by turning more quinces into a curd, the buttery curd compliments the sweetness of the jelly and the acidity of the crème fraîche balances the dish.

This garibaldi recipe has been with me for many years. It can be fairly temperamental and behaves best during the winter. If the dough gets a bit warm it sticks and makes a bit of a mess. My top tip is to wrap it into sausages and let it chill well for a minimum of 6 hours. Then, take it from the fridge when you’re ready, cut it into disks and bake immediately. Do not hesitate or leave it to come to room temperature, it might just misbehave. I know I had a few “sticky” moments in the past. If you have baked a few too many of these delicious biscuits keep the baked biscuits in an air tight container, or alternatively, bake what you need and keep the remaining dough in the freezer. Defrost the dough in the fridge overnight and bake as per the recipe below. I sprinkle the warm baked biscuits with caster sugar to give it even more of a homemade look.

As you know by now I’m not quite normal and find it hard to do things the standard way, there has to be a twist somewhere along the line. Perhaps I’m putting too much pressure on myself to be slightly different or perhaps it just comes naturally.

Mr.P and I enjoy eating a good chicken Caesar salad as it is satisfying and has lots of different textures and does not leave you feeling heavy and bloated.

I made this particular dish into a portion big enough for a main coarse but if you wish you can  make a smaller amount and serve  as a starter.

It’s not always about the gimmicks and twists  that make a great dish but it’s also about good quality ingredients that are to be enjoyed when in season. These baby gem lettuces are from my small kitchen garden and this year I had better success as I introduced kolhrabi, a member of the brassicas. This was planted next to the lettuces and this helped to minimise  the pest problems which allowed us to enjoy a lovely harvest of baby gems. The chicken is from a farm near Sutton Hoo in Suffolk, I go specially to the Snape farmers market to buy these chickens as they are plump and delicious.

These Sutton Hoo Chickens are very big, the average weight is 2kg. This is enough to make stock from the bones and at least two meals for the two of us from the legs and breast or alternatively its sufficient for four people. I roasted the legs, flaked the meat down and then made the small pots of chicken. It’s fun and adds that extra texture and enjoyment into eating the dish. The Caesar dressing and Parmesan cheese also found itself revamped into a mousse textured foam, I served that in a small glass jar on the plate.

It’s great fun, gets a wow at the dinner table and would also make a great dish to take along on a picnic.

We discovered Arabica Food and Spice at Borough market about two years ago and fell in love with the range of quality products that they sell. We got hooked on their spices Ras-el-Hanout and Wild Sumac, these are available elsewhere but nothing beats the quality from Arabica Food and Spice. Ever heard or used the phrase “you get what you pay for” well that is definitely so with these ingredients.

We met up with James Walters from Arabica Food and Spice and went for a “jamming session” in his kitchen. It was a fun day cooking on James’ house boat, we were perhaps slightly over ambitious attempting to do too many recipes and perhaps got a bit  drawn into the chore of cooking and  forget about the enjoyment factor. But all in all it was a fantastic day, the main aim was to use as many of Arabica Food and Spice’s ingredients and we certainly achieved that.

We used the wild sumac in the orange polenta shortbreads to compliment the citrus undertones from the orange, and  we also sprinkled some sumac over the mango and orange salad inside the pudding. We made  orange blossom air, by adding the orange blossom water to yoghurt and then dispensed it from a cream whipper which was charged with nitrous oxide. The gas injection expanded the volume of the orange blossom flavoured yoghurt and created the most delicious and fragrant mousse texture.

I wanted to use Alphonso mangoes for the pudding but unfortunately these were not available  but they will be coming in season very soon so they would be a great substitute for the normal mangoes that I used. The added floral fragrance alongside the orange blossom air, transforms this delicious pudding into something rather spectacular.

A culinary foam consists of natural flavours such as fruit juices or vegetable purees, soup and stock bases mixed with gelling or stabilising agents such as lecithin, gelatine or natural fats in cream and other dairy produce .This is achieved by the introduction of air by using either a mechanical technique of whipping the fluids with either a hand held immersion blender or extruded through a cream whipper using N₂O cartridges.

This technique is not new to us and has been used for many generations such as the making of cappuccinos and the old childhood favourite  for adding a topping to an Ice-cream Sunday. Adrià has taken this 1970′s technique and equipment, refined the philosophy and used the science behind it all to develop the more commonly used culinary foams, airs and espumas that we all know these days.

In the ‘90s, when Ferran Adrià developed this technique it took the culinary world by storm and and it was considered avant-garde at that time. Then foams were used in the white-tablecloth establishments around the world and became totally over used.However who cares if foams are so ‘yesterday’ in the restaurant world? I still love the technique and think it’s definitely one to retain. It shows that the culinary world is turning and we are not all stuck in obeying the classic French school of cooking . I class it as a cookery technique developed and learnt in my cookery era and I’m proud of it and shall celebrate it for as long as I can.

The benefits of this technique is that when you incorporate air mechanically, in a fierce manner, into a very intense and strong flavoured sauce  you expand the flavour so it becomes light and sumptuous and the volume doubles.

As briefly explained before there are two kinds of foams. I  differentiate the two as follows:

1. The one that I refer to as a foam or cappuccino is made with a hand held immersion blender creating a wispy foam,
2. The other foam,  espuma or air ,is created by a cream whipper, also known as a siphon, using N₂O cartridges to incorporate the air which creates a  dense mousse type foam.

Which foam to use  and when is a matter of personal preference. To create the perfect foam or air it is important that you have a understanding of how to achieve this and I have listed a few facts that should set you on your way.

Espuma and Foaming facts:

• The liquid or puree must be thick and or dense enough to hold its shape.
• For the foam to hold its shape for a period of time there must be some form of thickening or gelling agent present in the liquid.
• Thickening and gelling agents are: gelatine, lecithin, agar and natural fats such as butter, cream and other dairy produce
  
• For hot foams the best thickeners are fat or starch; this could be found in butter, cream or milk. It’s also important to make sure that the liquid is not too hot, the perfect temperature is between 5o°C and 65°C. Place the cream whipper in a bain-marie filled with hot water; do not keep for longer than 2 hours.
• Cold foams also require fat to stabilise the shape but if you make dairy free foam you can use gelatine with dense liquid or purees, to stabilise the foam. All depends on what  you are making but I normally use 1 leaf of gelatine to 250ml of dense liquid. If your choice is dairy you can add fat by adding yoghurt, crème fraîche or cream.
• There are two different gasses available to charge the cream whipper . Standard gas bulbs that will give you the foaming characteristics are Nitrous oxide (N₂O) .
• Carbon Dioxide (CO₂) is also available and will give the liquid a fizzy texture commonly found in fizzy drinks. Select your gas carefully to give you the desired end result. If you would like to experiment with making fizzy soda drinks I recommend that you should investigate the Soda Siphons bottles.

British Larder Recipes Creating Foams

• Molasses Roasted Pineapple with Dark Brown Sugar
• Oyster Beignets With a Sorrel Velouté
• Cauliflower Soup with Morbier Air Profiteroles
• Celeriac Espuma with Ras-el-Hanout Steamed Tiger Prawns
• Apple Snowball
• White Hot Chocolate Espuma with The Ultimate Chocolate Brownies
• Clementine Sherbet Verrines
• Tamarind Pears with Creamed Tapioca and Toffee Pear Lollipops
• Mango and Blackcurrant Espuma
• Pink Peppercorn Strawberry Jelly and Thyme Infused Honey Custard
• Chilled Pea Soup With Parmesan Cream and Soft-Boiled Gulls’s Egg
• Restaurant Sat Bains presents a “Sweet Curry”
• Vinegar Air and Salty Crispy Potatoes

It might seem as if I wish my life away but what I’m actually doing is being prepared, one step in front and trying to not be stressed when it’s time to show my wares.

As a matter of fact I’m involved with drinks and canapé events all the year round so the need for inspiration and creativity is a constant demand.

I’m busy compiling another of my chef’s tips and fact sheets similar to the ones on gelatine and agar agar, this time it’s about espumas / culinary foams. Normally the information and techniques are in my head but the whole idea behind the British Larder is for me to share my knowledge and skill so that others can play and do it themselves. I find this immensely satisfying and rewarding.

Most chefs might cringe at the thought of a cheese foam as they think it’s passé; but then I’m so pleased food is subjective and it works for me. It’s a technique developed in my cooking era, something not  from the Larousse and a technique I think that will last for a while and will make it’s mark on the culinary map.

I have chosen to use Montgomery cheddar for this cheesy foam as it’s strong, packs a punch and a very little goes a long way. The crispy bacon adds a meaty smoky saltiness to this delicious canapé the only thing missing is a glass of bubbly! Salute!

Sorrel and oysters are both at their best right now, a true seasonal treat.

Sorrel has an eye watering sour tang but it too has that love or hate  effect. I have fond memories of cooking sorrel omelettes in the 90’s. With its pungent sharp distinctive taste, sorrel leans best towards sauces to accompany white fish such as Lemon Sole, Sea Bass and John Dory. The classic combination of chilled sorrel soup with poached duck eggs is a definite winner, as it marks the beginning of spring.

With those wonderful  fond memories I set off to create a delicious dish that would not only compliment my style but also my taste.

As we all know food is subjective and what I love is not always what others would like.

The whole thought processes for this recipe were to create a canapé, one pretty mouth full of flavour and pure pleasure. The crispy oyster beignet with the pungent taste of the sorrel velouté, subdued by the addition of the aerated sauce, finished off by crisp crunchy pickled cucumber. The introduction of the dried edible flowers and coriander cress not only looks pretty but compliments the taste of this truly delectable dish.

My grandfather experimented with most of these exotics and if it did not work  he would just pull it out and try something else. I loved his approach and have adopted a similar theory/ technique in my cooking and gardening. England does not have the right climate to grow pineapples so when they are in season and come from a fairtrade supplier then I’m more than happy to buy one.

You might think that I’m a hypocrite, in  as much I advocate using local seasonal produce and then use pineapples. I acknowledge that though we live in a country with a cooler climate this should not preclude us from using  ingredients grown in warmer climes. We all know that the economics and success of other countries depend on their exports. So with the regulated fairtrade scheme I believe it’s the right thing to support these countries providing I know it’s all above board and that the right people benefit from my pound.

Earlier this week I was chatting on line to Trish who asked a very valid question about gelatine. Well to be honest I was dreading this question as I think it’s absurd that there are so many different sizes and that manufacturers change things willy nilly. Anyhow the conclusion was that I had to put pen to paper and describe the various forms of gelatine. Fortunately my larder contained the whole range from bronze and platinum leaves to powdered versions. I set up an experimental laboratory in my kitchen and had plenty of fun at the same time. Please read about my conclusions on “how to use gelatine” under my new British Larder Tips section. I have to thank Trish to prompt me to do this as I have not only found peace of mind for myself but at the same time can help you to feel more confident in using it.

The sheet size of  UK leaf gelatine changed to half size a few years ago but it still causes confusion especially as the catering industry use another size of gelatine which comes with different grades and strengths. In the UK you can buy a variety of branded gelatine leaves, the two that I’m most familiar with are G.Costa and Super Cook Select Platinum Grade. My understanding is that though the dimensions changed, the strength remained the same, so in short it is exactly the same thing just a different size.

This page should give you enough information to feel confident to use gelatine either at home or commercially.

Please note that the sizes and formats described apply to the UK only and may vary in other countries.

What is Gelatine?

Gelatine is an odourless, colourless and tasteless solid substance made from protein derived from beef and veal bones, tendons and other tissue,whereas much of the commercial gelatine is a by-product of pig skin. It’s commonly used as a gelling or setting agent in cookery, both savoury and sweet. Gelatine is an irreversible hydrolyzed form of collagen and is classified as a foodstuff with an E-number E441. Gelatine is found in lots of every day foods such as marshmallows, jellies and some low-fat yogurts and set desserts. Some dietary or religious customs forbid the use of gelatine from certain animal sources, and medical issues may limit or prevent its consumption by certain people.

Gelatine sets firm when cold and melts completely at 35°C.

The effect of commonly used ingredients on the setting point of gelatine

There are a few everyday  ingredients that can influence the setting point of gelatine.

• Milk and dairy products strengthen the gelling process and support the structure of gelatine,
• Salt lowers the strength and can cause the collapse of the structure or in some cases prevent the setting of the gelatine, all, this could be counteracted by increasing the amount of gelatine used.
• Sugars increase the strength of gelatine with the exception of fructose found in fruits
• Acids such as vinegar, fruit juice and wine with a pH below 4 produces a weaker jelly and requires the amount of gelatine used to be increased by upto 1/3 of the original amount.
• Strong acids and tannins in red wine and tea can make a jelly, set with gelatine, go cloudy. Cloudiness can be prevented by cooking the tannin rich ingredient and gelatine solution together briefly, about a minute or two. The jellies can also benefit from being passed through a muslin cloth or in some cases even being clarified.
• Pineapple, papaya, melon and kiwi fruit all contain protein digesting enzymes that break gelatine down and prevent it from setting. You can deactivate these destructive enzymes by cooking the fruits and turning the fruit into a puree or cook the extracted juices to create a clear jelly.

How To Use Leaf Gelatine

• All leaf gelatines must be soaked properly before using, regardless of the brand, strength  or size.
• You must always soak leaf gelatine in cold water, as anything less than cold may interfere with the blooming stage.
• Place the leaf or leaves in a suitably sized flat container, if you soak more than one sheet make sure you separate them by wiggling them about in the water, if they stick together they will not soak properly and their use will be diminished.
• Pour enough cold water over the gelatine to ensure it’s completely covered.
• Leave to soak until the gelatine blooms(expands) and goes wrinkly, this takes normally about 5 – 6 minutes depending on the quantity. If you soak numerous sheets this will take longer.
• Do not leave the gelatine in the water  too long, it will start to break down and you will not be able to use it in the correct amounts if it starts to disintegrate.
• Once bloomed the gelatine is ready to be used, remove the gelatine from the water, squeeze it between your fingers to remove any excess water.
• Melt the gelatin by adding it to the warm liquid that it is to be added to, the liquid temperature must be over 35°C.
• Once the liquid is cooled below 4°C the gelatine will set and become firm. You can melt the gelatine and re-set it for the second and third time by bringing the liquid back to over 35°C and then set it again at below 4°C

How To Use Bronze Commercial Gelatine

For commercial use I recommend and only use bronze leaf gelatine.

I have devised a simple formula to give you an indication of how much to use. Please remember these are only guide lines and always test small amounts by chilling 100ml of your mixture to check how firm it sets. I normally pop a small about in a flat small bowl and chill it quickly in the freezer, this way I can add a bit more gelatine or let it down if it does not set to my liking.

The formula for Bronze Gelatine Sheets

• 1 sheet of bronze gelatine for 100ml liquid = soft set (easy to turn out)
• 1 sheet of bronze gelatine for 125ml liquid = wobbly soft set (served in a glass)

How To Use Domestic Small Gelatine Leaves – Platinum Grade

The small sheets that you buy from most supermarkets and delis in the UK are made by G.Costa or Super Cook Select Platinum Grade and the strength differs slightly to the bronze commercial larger sheets.

• 1 small platinum sheet for 100ml liquid = soft set (easy to turn out)
• 1 small platinum sheet for 125ml liquid = wobbly set (serve in a glass)

Conversions for powder gelatine to leaves

• 1 level teaspoon of gelatin powder = 1½ small leaves
• 3 level teaspoons of gelatin powder = 3 small leaves
• 6 level teaspoons of gelatin powder = 6 small leaves

Conclusion

I conclude  that there is no difference between commercial bronze and domestic platinum gelatine. I found from  my test  that the bronze product has a “bronze/ yellow” colour where as the platinum was bright and almost colourless. My personal preference is to use leaf gelatine rather than the powdered version. Remember that gelatine is not suitable for vegetarians nor certain religious diets, I recommend using veggie gel or agar agar which are both suitable for vegetarians and vegans.  I will write another separate page covering agar agar as there are some important rules to follow for it’s successful use.

If you would like me to write about any other specialist ingredients please let me know and I will investigate and share my findings.

Myths About Geltine

My mother used to give me gelatine supplements, she believed it would strengthen my hair and nails. Well the truth is that there is no medical or scientific evidence to confirm that gelatine supplements have a direct link to the strengthening of hair and nails. In other words it’s a myth.

What we do know is that nails and hair are made of a protein called keratin and gelatine is not a building block for keratin proteins.

British Larder Recipes Using Gelatine

• Molasses Roasted Pineapple with Dark Brown Sugar
• Coconut Panacotta and Passion Fruit Eggs
• Apple Snowball
• Tamarind Pears with Creamed Tapioca and Toffee Pear Lollipops
• Clementine Sherbet Verrines
• Thyme Poached Apricots
• Buttermilk Pudding with Blood Oranges
• Roasted Cardamom Panacotta with Stewed Rhubarb
• Sticky Orange Cake with Natural Yogurt Topping
• Funky Bircher Muesli
• Vinegar Air and Salty Crispy Potatoes
• Hog Shank and Savoy Cabbage Terrine
• Mango & Blackcurrant Espuma
• Strawberry Crunch and Pomegranate Marshmallows

I discovered the existence of Morbier about 10 years ago and always perceived it as being rather sophisticated and classy cheese. I still think so and continue to be in love with it as much as that very first discovery. I love the subtle but perfect blue line that runs through middle of this slightly salty sweet semi hard but equally bouncy and soft cheese. The gentle fragrance is subtle at first but once you take the second bite the taste becomes stronger and it leaves you with an unforgettable rounded fragrant after taste. Because of this sophistication and strength I have chosen to use Morbier to accompany this humble cauliflower soup dish.

Cauliflowers are an impressively complicated and well designed structure of a vegetable. Have you ever taken the time to study the composition? I think that architects and artists must find the construction of this incredibly clever but unique vegetable fascinating, it has so may different dimensions, arches, links and shades; but then the colour fascinates me even more. When I cook cauliflower I always try and keep the fresh creamy white colour, I find it complex warm and very inviting.

Cooking a soup that packs a punch in flavour is not always easy, my aim when I choose a flavour profile is always to end up with a dish that tastes of the ingredients that I have used. Cauliflowers have a strong fragrant flavour but it’s incredibly interesting how the interference of other strong flavours such as onions and garlic can easily mask the freshness and perfume of the cauliflower. Hence I only use these sparingly when I cook cauliflower soup. I apply this theory with most fragrant vegetables especially the root varieties such as celeriac and parsnips.

One of Mr.P’s Christmas presents last year was a new needle attachment for his cream whipper. So this whole dish was designed and developed around this needle attachment. Boys and their toys!! I must admit I was intrigued to see it in action. The needle is a pretty neat design and helps you  apply foams in smaller amounts in tighter and smaller spaces. I used the needle to inject the morbier air into the crisp and freshly baked profiteroles. When you bite into them you get a cheesy surprise, delicious!

I have a love hate relationship with my career, someday’s I just want to give it up and on others I’m seriously grateful for the opportunity to meet so many wonderful and skilful people. I met Craig Edney from Hydromel at a cocktail party last weekend and is the man in the know when it comes to making cocktails. Craig made me one of his signature cocktails using this spiced rum and I enjoyed it so much that it inspired me to make my own special drink, perfect to celebrate Christmas.

I heated apple juice,  infused with cloves, orange, cinnamon, star anise and added a good helping of Morgan’s Spiced Caribbean Rum. For the apple snow I made a foam, also known as espuma, using a cream whipper. I mixed the ingredients together and once aerated the apple snow looks amazing floating on top of the warm apple rum.

This drink is not only full of festive cheer but also great fun and will be a great way to kick a bit of spirit into Christmas day.

The Britihs Larder wishes everyone a very festive and merry Christmas!