December 1st, 2009

Brett

Lunch by Brett Graham, The Ledbury

As we had a little break we wanted to make the most of every day. Crazy how fast time flies when you are having fun!

So on the first available day we went to the Ledbury, Notting Hill for lunch, where the very creative chef Brett Graham is at the helm.

Brett is an outstanding chef and the thing I love the most about his Michelin star cooking is that he takes humble seasonal ingredients and turns them into something mouth watering, outstanding and incredibly innovative.

We love talking food with Brett, he’s a very generous man not only with his food and creativity but also with his time. We normally find ourselves getting carried away chatting about food, ingredients, new inspiration, food trends and all sorts of foodie talk. After a visit and yet another meaningful encounter in Bretts presence I feel revived and freshly inspired to go and cook. I find myself looking differently at a leek or beetroot and the need to give myself a bit of a talking to for partially losing touch with my cooking, so with a deep breath it’s onwards and upwards. I think it’s  fair to say that Bretts influences are in a way addictive, if you have not had a chat for a while you quickly develop the urge to revisit the man.

Brett always has something good to say about other chefs,  which I think is a very good and upbeat quality to have. I think it could easily swing the other way, as if one has x-amount of Michelin stars behind your name, a chef could easily find it difficult to see  good in others, not Brett, he’s humble and incredibly positive. He’s very in touch with reality knowing that his business must make money but then is equally appreciative of his staff, respects his restaurant and has an immense awareness of seasonality, all qualities I could only dream of having in one package.

The menu was exquisite….

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Beetroot and Foie Gras Meringues

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Chestnut and Truffle Soup with Quince and Pheasant Beignet

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Cervice of Scallop, Seaweed Oil, Buttermilk and Horseradish Granita, Kohlrabi Pickle and Apple Jellies

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Squid Risotto with Cauliflower Shavings, Cauliflower Foam, Sherry Reduction and Roasted Pine Nuts

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Salt Baked Beetroot, Cigarillo of Goats Cheese and Elderberries

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Poached Oysters with Romanesco and a Brown Bread Emulsion

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Flame Grilled Leek, Hand Made Macaroni, Sauteed Cod, Truffle Shaving and Mushroom Puree

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Sea Bass Liquorice Skewer, Mussels Poached and Beignet, Avocado Cream

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Pigeon Breast, Chinese Leave, Golden Beetroot, Grapes, Parsnip and Black Olive Puree, Lardo Baked Parsnips;

On the side a Smoking Dome with the Confit Pigeon Legs and Foie Gras

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Granny Smith Sorbet, Burnt Custard and Elderflower Granita

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Rhubarb Ravioli, Buttermilk Sorbet and Panacotta

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Brown Sugar Tart, White Raisin Ice Cream, Muscat and Vincotto Grapes

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Banana Gallet, Salted Peanut Ice Cream and Passion Fruit

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Warm Chocolate Madeline’s, Candied Walnuts, Walnut Ice Cream and Chocolate Ganache

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Coffees, Tea and Petit Fours

The whole menu was absolutely delicious and I could not fault nor better any of the elements or dishes presented to us. I have to have a few favourites though. I thought the Squid risotto was the most innovative dish I have had in a very long time, the squid itself was the risotto, so surprise no rice. I loved the texture, eating experience and just everything about this dish was brilliant.

The Pigeon dish was truly remarkable, the theatrical presentation of a glass dome, filled with smoke, bearing the most delicious nuggets of foie grass and confit pigeon legs and together with the main part of the dish which was cooked to perfection, delicious.

Lastly the most memorable dish for me must be the chocolate dessert. If I close my eyes I can almost still taste the pureness of the incredibly high quality chocolate that’s been used. I like the hot and cold aspects along with the clever use of different textures crunchy, crispy, soft, grainy, smooth etc… they are all there, truly memorable!

Our experience at The Ledbury was yet another reminder why Brett Grahams holds a Michelin Star, and he definitely deserves it.

The Ledbury,127 Ledbury Road, Notting Hill, London, W11 2AQ

10 Comments to “Lunch by Brett Graham, The Ledbury”

  1. MCourtney says:

    I was delighted to see Brett and his team get a second michelin star. My husband and I used to eat out a lot at middle range restaurants and we don’t bother now: we just save our money to eat regularly at the Ledbury.

    We went on New Year’s Eve. The 7 course menu was supplemented by 3 further courses that Brett sent for our table. We were all beyond full and as usual every course was exquisite. For those that haven’t visited, do: it is really a marvelous experience in terms of food, service and a very friendly ambience that I sometimes find missing in michelin restaurants.

    Peter, the young New Zealand sommelier, is great esp if like us you have quite strong preferences, like to try something new, but are a tad clueless :)

  2. Mike says:

    I went to The Ledbury as you know Maddy last week and had the meal of my life, a 4 1/2 hour lunch, 10 dishes and matching wine.

    Was outstanding and a top chef friend of mine from up north said that if Brett doesnt get a second star he will hang up his own whites and work at burger king.

    I loved every moment and will certainly go back again and again, the food, and the service was flawless and has certainly inspired me and given me some pointers for mine and sams restaurant, as and when we open, hopefully not too much longer.

    Catch ya later

    x

  3. Barry Dean says:

    I’m not sure even I could have managed all those courses!

    The madeleines look adorable – I love making them, but I’ve never tried chocolate ones. I think it’s wonderful how so little batter will make so many – and they are light as a feather, despite all the butter.

    Did you take your camera to the restaurant? If so, did they mind?

    PS – sorry to be a party-pooper, but if it doesn’t contain rice, it ain’t a risotto! ;-)

  4. The pictures are glorious…

  5. Michèle Barlow says:

    yummy…I hope he gave you his recipes and you will share them with us? (especially those that highlight the benefits of using a Tm31)

    Michèle

  6. [...] Lunch by Brett Graham, The Ledbury Restaurant Review by Madalene … [...]

  7. Lizzie says:

    The Ledbury has been at the top of my ‘want to visit’ list since I tried a couple of their dishes at Taste London. The menu sounds incredible.

  8. Barry says:

    the Galette de Banane is VERY similar to my own.. I use coconut cream with the caramel spiral… coconut Ice cream with almond croquant & garnished with black currants marinated in a rhum sirop… after all i do live in Mauritius.. and try to stick to the local stuff… really like the salted peanut ice cream bit… gonna try it

  9. Barry says:

    Sounds incredible… i am greeen with envy

  10. Thermomixer says:

    Sounds superb. Good to see a chef taking photos (excellent ones too) in a restaurant. Lots of restaurants here are wooried about bloggers and the lighting is turned down low.

    All sounds interesting. The calamari risotto and cauliflower sounds very Ferran.

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